What does an alarm system do and how will it benefit me?

First and foremost an alarm system will not decrease your chances of having a break-in or burglary. Alarm systems are designed to detect and inform, not prevent. At best, what a well designed alarm system will do is detect the presence of an intruder before he enters the premises. The goal here is to limit the amount of time he has to grab your stuff.

THE "FEAR" SELL:

This type of sales technique is no longer in common practice. It involved a sales person making vague (and sometimes specific) references to other break-ins or incidents in the prospective purchaser's neighbourhood. Any salesperson that engages in this tactic should not be tolerated (show him/her the door). A variation of this technique still exists today, but is largely customer driven. If you have been the subject of a break-in, you must try to deal with your alarm system purchase objectively, and not as a reaction to the event, or from fear that it may happen again. You don't have to fortify your home to the point that your security system rivals that of the one used at the Loomis® armoured car depot. In most instances your insurance provider can suggest several good alarm service companies for you to call.

What is "line seizure" and why is it important?

I thought it worth mentioning that many so-called "FREE" systems may lack not only the physical protection you need, but could also suffer from a fatal flaw. If that "voice response" system you have can't complete the phone call to the monitoring station, there is simply not going to be "the voice" there to "threaten the burglar" with the dire consequences they're so fond of promoting. It's important for you to recognize that your system's ability to communicate is predicated not only on it's correct installation but on the proper connection to the telephone company's demarcation. If the installer is going to plug his system into your kitchen phone jack, your security system is at risk. If, during the course of your monthly test you generate an alarm signal to the monitoring station and you can hear the system dialing when you pick up another phone in the house, you DO NOT HAVE A SECURE SYSTEM!

What is an alarm system and how does it work?

If this is indeed your first time purchasing a security system, it's a good idea to familiarize yourself with the terminology used in the security industry. Getting a basic understanding of what makes up a modern alarm system, installation methods, and terms used will help you to make an informed decision with respect to your protection.

There are two types of systems (or alarm categories). All modern home and business alarms will fall into one of these two categories regardless of whom you might be purchasing the equipment from. Some designs are often a compromise between the two, based on the individual businesses' or home owner's budget.

Note: Perimeter protection is designed primarily to protect the occupants of a building or area and is defined by a specific boundary (usually exterior or interior walls) that is best suited to the consumer's security concerns and budget.

DOOR AND WINDOW CONTACTS:

Of the two main groups of devices that comprise a modern alarm system, contact type switches are the simplest by far, and the most powerful.  When properly utilized, they can detect an intrusion into the protected space even before physical entry is gained.  Contacts on certain entry doors also act as "triggers" that enable the system to detect an entry of a legitimate user and give them the time required to access the control unit and disarm it (or turn it off). 

The most common types of contacts employ a micro switch made of very thin metal reeds that are hermetically sealed into a plastic or aluminum housing.  They are either surface mounted or flush mounted into the door or window frame.  Surface mounted contacts are usually secured with double sided tape or screwed onto the door frame.  Wires connected to the switch terminals are in turn terminated into one of the zones of the control unit.  A simple magnet is mounted immediately adjacent to the switch on the door or window itself.  When the two units (magnet and switch) are in close proximity, the control unit recognizes this as a "normal" condition.  When you open the door/window, the reed switch is activated and the alarm system interprets this as a "break" in the wire which in turn triggers the zone to which the switch is terminated.

Most alarm systems are capable of recognizing when a switch is "tampered" with, and it is up to you as the concerned customer (not the alarm installer) to ensure that this feature is activated.  In most instances, most alarm companies will install "low security" normally closed switches and in the case of a flush mounted installation, this provides excellent protection.  Surface mounted switches, however, are far more accessible to a knowledgeable burglar or dishonest employee bent on mischief, and in some applications a higher security switch may be the more prudent choice. Your professional security consultant should present these options to you during the course of his normal walk around inspection of your premise.  In most instances the difference in cost between the lower and the higher security switches is not even worth mentioning.

Some alarm systems require even higher security contacts.  These employ a reed switch with three terminals.  When an "alarm" condition is achieved (by the opening of a door or window), one "side" of the terminals will "open", and the other will "short".  The combination or a single action (an opening or closing terminal) will result in a faulted or tripped zone.  Still other types of contacts employ a "biased" magnet/switch combination.  When an intruder attempts to bypass the magnet on the door or window with another magnet, the switch will immediately open and display an alarm condition. The simplest contact switch device is one that is rarely utilized today, although there are still legitimate applications that do crop up from time to time. This device employs a spring loaded micro switch, which looks very similar to the switches used in your car to turn on the interior lights when you open your door.

GLASS BREAKAGE DETECTORS:

One of the most innovative devices and probably the best physical intrusion sensor on the market today. This device responds to specific audio frequencies associated with breaking glass. It consists of a sensitive microphone mounted inside a plastic case and quite often is "teamed" with either a seismic or air density sensor. The two technologies working in tandem provide a virtually false alarm free detector. The physical act of dropping a glass on a tile floor directly beneath one of these types of sensors was usually sufficient to trigger a false alarm. The industry has addressed this problem by providing "dual-technology" sensors.

When an exterior window pane is broken the glass itself actually "flexes" or bulges in the few microseconds after an impact and just before it physically breaks or shatters. This action, coupled with the sound made by the breaking glass is how the sensor is able to distinguish between an actual window being broken, and the accidental dropping of a drinking glass. "Flex" is by no means the only other part of the "dual-technology" equation. Other sensors incorporate what resembles a seismic sensor as part of their alarm discrimination circuitry. These types of sensors have to be mounted fairly close to the windows they are protecting, and their installation requires other "additional" considerations. They have to be attached to a portion of the building structure that is capable of transmitting the "shock" part of the equation. This may not always be possible.

Your alarm consultant will also caution you with respect to curtains, and other window "treatments" that may interfere with the sensor and preclude it from actually detecting an intrusion. It's also very important for the installer to verify the sensor's capacity to detect an alarm condition prior to it's actual physical installation. What this means is that the installer should manually test each detector BEFORE determining the unit's final installation location.

Here are some pictures of different dual technology glass break detectors:

WIRED WINDOW SCREENS:

BEAM DETECTORS:

INTERIOR PROTECTION DEVICES

Note: Interior protection is designed primarily to protect objects and personal property, not people. Most often these devices are bypassed when the room or area is occupied by the legitimate owners or users.

MOTION DETECTORS:

Unauthorized access or intrusions into a protected area are best detected by movement (or motion) sensors.  These types of units utilize a variety of methods to sense motion of an individual and some may even employ two technologies (commonly referred to as "dual-tech" or dual technology sensors). These methods are:

Infrared (PIRO ELEMENT) Detectors commonly referred to as PIR's (short for Passive InfraRed) detector. The most common type of detector utilized today, and the most cost-effective.  They are sometimes referred to as "dual element" detectors which, simply put, allows them to discriminate between commonly encountered background "noise" and the physical presence of an intruder. These detectors sense infrared energy emitted by or reflected from an object.  Infrared energy is simply heat.  All objects in a room emit some form of heat energy, some more than others. Humans and household pets (dogs & cats) emit a lot of infrared energy in the form of body heat.  We are surrounded by a "halo" of infrared energy.  We can't see it ourselves, but these detectors are designed specifically to sense it.  Some areas of a room  can also emit a lot of infrared light or heat. A fireplace or a patch of floor illuminated by the sun for long periods of time produce a "bloom" of infrared light that is brighter than any living target. The way PIR's work is actually quite ingenious. The actual detection element is mounted behind a faceted lens usually made of an opaque plastic. This plastic is essentially a light filter. It allows free passage of infrared light, but restricts other bands of light (the middle oranges, yellows, greens, and blues (or ultraviolet) commonly referred to as a "white light" filter.  A moving target or object passes in front of the lens. As it moves from one facet to another circuitry in the detector "times" the movement from facet to facet. When it falls into a preprogrammed set of variables (most often associated with a moving target), the "alarm thresh hold" is reached and the sensor is triggered. Unfortunately it is often difficult for the sensor to distinguish between an "animal" target and a human one (such as an intruder).  Larger animals will often trigger "false alarms". Your security consultant should ask about pets and may even suggest restricting their movements (closing off the areas protected by motion sensors to the pet) to avoid the possibility of false alarms. New technology has advanced the capability of the PIR sensor, and "pet friendly" detectors are now widely available.  Pet immune or pet friendly detectors are more expensive than standard motion sensors, but this is an option you may well wish to consider. These are pictures of some of the more popular infrared sensors used today:

Paradox® Digital 404 Ademco® 998 DSC® Bravo 3

Ultra-sonic Detectors These are motion sensors that are rarely utilized today because of the advances made in the PIR detector and the shortcomings identified with this technology.  These types of detectors utilize high frequency sound (a frequency well beyond human hearing) and something called the "Doppler Shift" (an effect caused by a target or individual moving towards the sensor) which activates detection circuitry and causes the sensor to "alarm".  Unfortunately over time, the high frequency sound emitted by the sensor can become modulated to a lower frequency and begin to disturb pets in the home.  Cats & dogs that refuse to enter certain rooms in the house or act differently when in the same room as one of these detectors are sure signs that the sensor may require adjustment or replacement (usually the latter).  The major drawback with these types of sensors is the ease with which they are "cheated".  An intruder that recognizes the distinctive shape of the sensor has only to walk through the room PARALLEL to the sensor.  As long as he/she doesn't approach the sensor, the "Doppler Shift" essential to the units activation will not occur.

Microwave Detectors These units are very similar to the ultra-sonic detector with one major exception.  Instead of sound energy, this type of sensor utilizes radar energy to sense the "Doppler Shift" caused by a moving target.  Because it utilizes radar (microwave) energy it can also sense "side" Doppler (that is movement parallel to the sensors line of sight), so the drawback encountered with the ultra-sonic detector is virtually eliminated.  Unfortunately and because it utilizes this technology, it can also pass through some types walls or barriers.  It can often sense the movement of liquids in domestic water and drain pipes.  Its ability to be focused very tightly and its uncommon range (some units can "see" three hundred feet or more) makes it an excellent fence line protector.

Back to Top

These devices are specially designed to be concealed either under room carpet (or rugs) or under the floor. When an intruder steps onto the protected floor, he triggers the alarm. These sensors are more commonly used in highly traveled areas (like hallways), or surrounding a specific area or object that requires protection.

STRATEGIES:

LEASE VERSUS PURCHASE:

A Lease usually has a fixed term (usually three to five years renewable for consecutive one year terms), low (sometimes FREE) installation costs, but high monitoring or service charges. Companies most often offer to allow the customer to purchase the equipment at a fair adjusted market value after the end of the initial term. This can be viewed as a major disadvantage in that the actual cash expenditure over the term of the lease may be higher than the initial cost of an outright purchase. The advantage is that the installing company usually offers free maintenance (excluding damage from outside sources) for the life of the lease contract.

THE "FREE" SYSTEM:

You normally expect to get what you pay for so be wary of so called FREE systems. In most instances accepting such a system means you are subject to a minimal installation (two door contacts, a single motion sensor, a siren, keypad, and common control). This system may be adequate for most apartments, but totally wrong for larger single family dwellings. You're not getting much in the way of protection either way. In the latter instance, the sales person will attempt to "up sell" your system or offer extended protection by offering additional devices. Your FREE system now comes with a hefty monthly price tag.

VOICE RESPONSE SYSTEMS:

We've all been subjected to the radio ads flogging the latest and greatest voice response monitoring systems (the fact that the one that's most actively advertised happens to come with "free" installation doesn't make it "better"). In many cases (if not all), the equipment is sold over the telephone and the installing technician is required to upsell the customer on-the-spot if he feels the "basic package" is inadequate (oh, the PRESSURE!). In addition, you're required to sign a contract which locks you in for a period of three (3) years. The cost of any additional equipment is usually pro-rated onto the monthly monitoring charge. A single door contact (or two) and a motion detector made "pet proof" by mounting it up-side-down is not going to give you the level of protection you deserve!

We can also categorically state that security control panels that offer two way voice communication with a central monitoring station have been available for as long as a certain company has been publicly marketing it. For a company to claim that they offer the "best security" and are "the most trusted" because they heavily promote "two way voice" communication simply isn't true. If you're really keen on the technology ask ANY Dealer if their station's receiver is capable of processing signals from a voice activated panel. Chances are they'll say yes as most of the central station receivers employed today in fact are, and contrary to the what the ads might claim, there usually isn't any additional cost to you.

"LINE CUT" OR BACK-UP COMMUNICATIONS:

This technology provides the subscriber's alarm control unit with the ability to transmit alarm signals to the central monitoring centre wirelessly (without the need for an actual telephone line). It's often sold as a back-up in case a smart burglar may decide to sever the lines going into your house and circumvent the normal means of signal transmission.

SMOKE AND CARBON MONOXIDE DETECTORS:

While your strategizing over which type of system and payment options best suits your budget, you might also want to consider including some technologies designed to protect your family from the "silent killer". If your home employs gas burning appliances (stove/cook tops, fireplaces, hot water tank, or furnace), a carbon monoxide detector and interconnected smoke alarms are worthwhile (and important) additions to any modern home alarm system.

SYSTEM TESTING:

Even the best security system in the world needs to be regularly tested. Most alarm manufacturers suggest a weekly test regimen, but this can be adjusted to a daily test should the need arise. All modern alarm equipment is capable of transmitting a self-test signal, and in most cases involving a "monitored" system, this normally occurs on a daily basis. The automated test signal verifies the communicator is operating correctly. It does not ensure the alarm system itself (or the peripheral devices it employs) is working. Consult your owners manual and follow the instructions of your own alarm provider in formulating your system's test schedule.

ADDITIONAL RESOURCES:

The Canadian Security Association (CANASA) - "Finding the right system."
The Electronic Security Association (ESA) - "Get Informed!"

Disclaimer: Neither CANASA or ESA are affiliated with the Fire Protection Technicians Network, and do not endorse this website.

SECURITY SYSTEM FAQ:

The motion detector in my house is mounted a lot lower than my neighbours and is up-side-down. Is this normal?

Chances are it's about three to four feet from the floor, right? There's only one reason I can think of that your motion detector is mounted this way. Your installer has elected to provide you with a "pet alley" (an area immediately below the level of the sensor has been created using this rather "quick fix" method so that your pets can roam freely without risking a false alarm while you're out). Is it "normal"? Not really. There are a number of premium motion detectors that are specifically designed to "ignore" pets while still providing the same level of protection as the normally mounted sensor in your neighbour's house (and you won't have to suffer with this big "hole" in your security). If however, you happen to have pets and have a system installed by a well known "voice response" provider, then you're "stuck" for the rest of your contract term. When you're no longer under contract, my advice would be to get yourself a REAL alarm system.

I have a DSC POWER 632 security system with an PC-5508 LED keypad. My problem is on my alarm system I have 6 active zones that run from 1 through 6 on the keypad. The zone 8 light is on and I'm sure that's why I cannot set my alarm. I have changed out the battery.

If the zone 8 lamp is lit continuously (even after you push the "#" key), this tells me that you may have some wireless zones on the system that are faulted (open). A low battery will light the "trouble" lamp and pressing *2 will cause the zone 1 light to turn on. Pressing 1 again will continue to illuminate the zone 1 light (press "#" twice to exit this display and arrange to have a new battery installed as soon as you can). If however, after you press *2, the zone 8 light is illuminated, you'll have to reset your system clock. Press "#" to exit the trouble display, then *6, your master code, then "1", followed by the time (in military format). Press "#" twice to exit. The "trouble" light will extinguish. The following FAQ details the "trouble" display for all of the DSC POWER products.

The trouble light on my DSC Power 632 PC5508 keypad is on. What does this mean?

If you don't have your manual, you can download a copy from the DSC website. Pressing "*" then "2" will activate the trouble display. If the zone 8 LED illuminates, you have to reset your system's clock. Press the "#" key twice to exit the trouble mode. Press "*" then "6" and then enter your master code. Press "1", the keypad will beep several times. Enter the current time (in military format), then press "#" twice to exit. Your trouble light will extinguish. If you're in trouble mode and any other LED illuminates, here's what they mean:

Zone 1 - General Trouble press "1" to advance to the next display level.
1 - Low Battery
2 - Bell/Siren Trouble
3 - System Trouble
4 - System Tamper
5 - Module Supervision Trouble
6 - Radio Frequency Jam Detected
7 - PC 5204 Low Battery
8 - PC 5204 AC Failure

Zone 2 - AC Failure

Zone 3 - Telephone Line Trouble

Zone 4 - Communications Error (Fail to Communicate Trouble)

Zone 5 - Sensor (or Zone) Fault (usually loss of supervision if your system is using end-of-line resistors)

Zone 6 - Sensor (or Zone) Tamper (applies to zones that have been programmed as "tamper's" - either latching or non-latching)

Zone 7 - Sensor Low Battery (applies to zones or sensors which employ RF - Wireless Technolgy)

Zone 8 - Loss of internal time (Reset your system's clock as I've described above)